Out of love for polygons: Lisa Shahno

[by Alexandra Zhovtenko]

The young Russian Lisa Shahno laid the foundations for her future fashion career when making clothes for dolls in her childhood. Later, driven by the idea to become an artist, she used to dress in self-made eccentric outfits and began to study at Moscow Mossovet College followed by the Moscow State University of Design and Technology.

With her first collection ‘Squaring the Square’ Shahno won the Grand-prize at the Kremlin Stars 2009 award (Moscow) and the Best Avant-garde award in the CREATEUROPE Fashion Design Contest 2009 (Berlin). The latter enabled her to spend a year in Berlin on a work placement with Andrea van Reimersdahl.

Besides her awards her work has been already displayed in numerous exhibitions, including the Russian Cycles and Seasons festival , Alter Nature: The Future that never was in Hasselt, Belgium andGerman Focus Fashion/ Photo ONSITE exhibit at Fashion Art Toronto festival 2012. To date she has since designed her second collection ‘The Iteration’ and contributed to several more projects.

Unlike other fashion designers, Lisa Shahno does not use traditional cutting techniques. Instead her pieces are always based on simple geometrical forms, which is why the young designer does not sketch beforehand but divides the garments into squares, rectangles and triangles.

“I believe that, if a flat pattern looks beautiful, the three-dimensional object it generates will look beautiful as well. […] While I was studying at an Art school, I often used to imagine three-dimensional objects which I needed to portray on two-dimensional surface of paper as a polyhedrons composed of polygons. It really helps me to understand and feel the beauty of the shapes still. I want to share this experience through my works.“

The Iteration’ is inspired by the Fractal Cosmology theory, indicating that our “universe may consist of infinite number of levels which are similar to each other but different in scale”. Translated into fashion Shahno uses one repeating basic element for her designs – a square divided by diagonals. As a result beautiful pieces were produced that impress with their voluminous, simultaneously angular shapes and graphical impact that create pieces more wearable than her former designs.

Although Lisa Shahno prefers to start with fabrics rather than with sketches when beginning to work on a new collection, she enjoys drawing and therefore started ‘In the Buddka’. On the website she transforms her design sketches into peculiar characters and provides them with brief sayings. Her newest project, Polyiamond, is a limited edition of silver waist packs in faux leather which are made of 22 triangles and are supposedly designed to keep our secrets.

The Russian designer connects fashion with art and considers herself more an artist than a fashion designer. Speaking in a recent interview, Shahno explained her outlook. “I don’t like the traditional way of presenting clothes. I’d like to explore a deeper interaction between presentations in galleries and fashion shows, wearable clothes, art objects and small scale production. I want people to ask more questions and to buy things not because a magazine or a blog told them that it is cool to do so, but because they understand and share the ideas that inspired the designer to create those things”.

Lisa Shano is available via NOT JUST A LABEL and TEKNOPOLICE.

All images copyright: Anastasia Markelova.

Original Article

Embellished Minimalism: Simone Rocha

[By Danica Coppelstone]

Simone Rocha, the daughter of esteemed designer John Rocha, has been immersed in fashion her entire life and yet it is obvious that her aesthetic is remarkably her own. Her collections speak to the romantic, yet strong and modern woman with a focus on embellished minimalism.

Rocha completed her studies at the National College of Art and Design in Dublin, and in 2010 she graduated from the MA fashion program at Central Saint Martins in London. Shortly after she was selected by Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East initiative, and presented her debut collection with them.

In September 2011 Simone launched a six-piece capsule collection with Topshop, at their Oxford Circus flagship store. Rocha was chosen as one of Selfridges ‘Bright You Things’ of 2011 and was awarded a month-long window display to showcase her SS11 collection. By February 2012 she was presenting a much-anticipated solo MA collection with Central Saint Martins at London Fashion Week to great critical acclaim and recognition.

For her AW12/13 collection Rocha has taken inspiration from the tribes of Papua New Guinea and Dublin City children of the thirties to create something masculine, youthful and edgy. Detached crocheted collars float above schoolgirl dresses and simple outlines, embellished with a multitude of opposing textiles. Wild wool tufted atop transparent PVC, mirrored silver leather paired with mohair, tweed mini-dresses with tulle overlay, all contributing to an ethereal, yet modern aesthetic. Rocha’s brilliant, and now signature brogues made another appearance, securing their cult-like status—this time with a thick, flat perspex sole, a little more commercial and street-ready than her previous SS perspex shard wedges.

Her collection can be found at a number of stores worldwide and online. A complete list of stockists can be found on her website.

All images copyright: Simone Rocha.

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Elegant and Ecological: Auralís

[By Cynthia Rodriguez]

Auralís Herrero Lugo, a New York-based fashion designer, makes sure that the process of creating stunning clothing costs the environment close to nothing, while effortlessly meshing Puerto Rican designs with New York flair. Her label, Auralís, only uses organic hemp, cotton, bamboo and silk, ascertaining that her materials are grown without chemical fertilizers.

However, if you expect drab hippie outfits to emerge from her Summer 2012 collection, sorry to disappoint. Her eco-friendly collection embodies class and effortless elegance.

While many trends dominated the runways during New York’s fashion week, putting neon outfits and drop waist dresses on the must-have list for many fashionistas, Lugo put her own spin into the same concepts as Marchesa and Steven Alan.

Lugo’s take on the neon trend for Auralís involved muting the tangerine on her Puerto Rican inspired skirt and topping it with a vibrant yellow button up with a squared neckline and a belt to cinch the waist. Don’t forget the suede, turquoise pumps, which complete the look without clashing the colors.

 The dropped waist trend was on full force on the SS12 runway, with Ralph Lauren and Marchesa revealing their own interpretation of the roaring 20s with sequins, feathers and fringe. Lugo went with the trend but ran in another direction. She still used light, flowing fabrics, which epitomized Daisy from The Great Gatsby. However, she kept the waist slightly higher than the others on the runway. The headpiece worn by the model helped add more character to the vintage looking dress.

With her Aw12/13 collection already out, Lugo continues to showcase regal designs with her ever-present tropical vibes. The colors are far more neutral, however, its youthful and glamorous designs keep the hemp and organic cotton jersey from looking plain and ordinary.

Her partnership with Jennifer Macgregor-Dennis paired her hand-dyed silks with 100 percent Irish wool, courtesy of Harris Tweed, effortlessly combining the regal hills of Scotland with the tropical flair of Puerto Rico.

According to the press release, Lugo’s collaboration with Zaida Adriana Goveo-Balmaseda made the knitted scarf and turban of “organic merino, baby alpaca and silk yarn” in the collection possible. Auralís designs are available through their on-line store.

All images copyright: Mónica Félix for Auralís.

Original Article

ASVOFF: The Future of Fashion

[By Cynthia Rodriguez]

Where does the future of fashion lie? As a creative outlet, it hasn’t been very creative in the way it has been displayed. Film, on the other hand, has gone through many transformations. From silent films to computer animation, films keep evolving to a point where you can’t possibly fathom where it will go next. What better way for fashion to evolve from its current state than to incorporate film into its presentation of design and concept?

ASVOFF4 Trailer, October 2011

Diane Pernet, a fashion guru who designs, curates and blogs fashion, has taken the lead in this new revolution with the ASVOFF, A Shaded View of Fashion Film, awards, which will take place in Milan from June 22- 24, 2012.

ASVOFF was created back in 2008, and, according to Pernet via Crane.tv, an online video magazine, anyone with a vision can participate in the event.

‘Onions Don’t Make Me Cry’, dir. Bryan Adams. Best Actor 2011.

“You could hire David Lynch or all the mega stars, or you could just do something really simple and great, with no money, but with an idea and originality that moves and touches people,” said Pernet. “And I think basically, I want to encourage people to get out, and pick up a camera and play with it and have fun and then send it to me.”

Not only does ASVOFF take the training wheels off of fashion’s bicycle, the festival also pushes the film envelope, encouraging artists to showcase designs, beauty and style in the most unique way possible.

‘Is This Real Life?’, Suzie Q and Siboni. Young Talent Prize 2011.

“I’d like to see more films and less runway shows to be honest, because I’m feeling runway shows feel so last century,” said Pernet. “It’s still in baby steps because people are understanding the possibilities. It’s not, you know, that you want to see a fashion shoot as a film, but to work on the film, the cinematic aspect. The sky is the limit.”

This year’s theme urges entrants to express destiny through their films, which, in the past, have been judged by a variety of people including journalist Alice Pfeiffer, photographer Rebecca Blake and creative director Jerry Stafford. The three-day festival will also include a ‘Best of ASVOFF’ series, which will showcase the exceptional films shown in the past.

‘The Fantastic Man: The Open Upright Spin’, dir. Lernert and Sander. Best Art Direction 2011.

For those interested in submitting a video, the film cannot be more than one minute long and the deadline is May 31, 2012. Diane Pernet will also be judging at the inaugural Berlin Fashion Film Festival taking place during Berlin Fashion Week in July 2012.

Original Article

Fashioning fashion: European Dress in Detail, 1700–1915

[By Sarah Hellen]

Sometimes we need to take a step back from the ever evolving, fast paced world of fashion we live in today and take a minute to delve back into the history books to see how trends, styles, fabrics and textiles evolved through time and remind ourselves of the extensive history behind what we wear today. Offering the perfect opportunity to do so is the Deutsches Historisches Museum with their current exhibition ‘Fashioning fashion: European Dress in Detail, 1700-1915’

The exhibition, originally from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, celebrates the museum’s ground breaking acquisition of a major collection of European men’s, women’s, and children’s garments and accessories which, through its more than 100 garments, tells the story of fashion’s technical and aesthetic development from the Age of Enlightenment through to World War I.

With evidence of over two hundred years of dress displayed, you can take your time to examine the sweeping changes in fashionable dress and depict the evolution in luxurious textiles, exact tailoring techniques, and lush trims. Fascinating fabrics, exquisitely tailored garments and precious décor are all to be seen in the museum’s show.

Glamorous women’s costumes and elegant men’s suits adorned with elaborately fashioned trimmings are amongst examples of luxurious clothing from wealthy haute-bourgeoisie and nobility, including a gold-embroidered dress of a Portuguese queen and the turban of the designer Paul Poiret.

Belgian scenographer Bob Verhelst, who holds an impressive repertoire of art direction, scenography and conceptual projects with designers such as Bruno Pieters, A.V Vandervorst and Yohi Jamamoto, as well as directing projects for the MoMa Antwerp and the National Museum of Zurich. Verhelst’s exhibition takes you on a journey through four chapters of the changes and developments in the aesthetics of fashion throughout the ages, ‘Timeline’, ‘Textiles’, ‘Tailoring’ and ‘Trim’.

The ‘Timeline’ shows the changes in the silhouette of women’s dresses in chronological sequence and the evolution of men’s suits from brightly coloured to their traditional dark hue. ‘Textiles’ informs us about the variety of surfaces that were developed through complex weaving, colouring and printing techniques.

‘Tailoring’ deals with the process of turning plain material into clothing, with special emphasis on forming, bracing and constricting techniques. Finally ‘Trim’ presents the finery of fashionable clothes: delicate laces, magnificent fine-wire embroidery, artful silk trimmings and colourfully patterned and sequinned accessories.

So if you have the time to devote a day, or even a few hours to step back in time and appreciate the art that is fashion, the German History Museum is open daily from 10am – 6pm and the exhibition will be running until 29 July 2012.

Deutsches Historisches Museum, Exhibition Hall, Unter den Linden, 10117 Berlin

Images copyright:  Museum Associates/LACMA.

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KONZEPT86 explained

[By FIER management]

KONZEPT86 is the new Berlin-based concept store for emerging fashion designers. With this post, we would like to give you a brief explanation of how the space works, why it’s located where it is, and how its sustainable and innovative approach to fashion works. As as we all know, new ideas and alternative ways of seeing often raise a few eyebrows, before being wholeheartedly accepted and widespread. So allow us to introduce KONZEPT86, before you venture into this new space this evening, at the KONZEPT86 Opening Party.

KONZEPT86 is located in the heart of Kreuzberg. Kreazberg might not have the established reputation of other areas in the city such as Mitte. However, the eclectic atmosphere of south-east Berlin is more representative of the labels showcased in the store: an international range of avant-garde, yet wearable emerging fashion talent.

The new store is located at The Wye, the soon to be opened international art house supporting artistic individuals and startups with studios, live residencies, exhibitions, events, public art programmes and educational workshops. We have chosen a location based on networking, collaborations and the natural sharing and interactions of people. An atypical location for a concept store, but KONZEPT86, as we are about to discover, is not your ordinary concept store.

KONZEPT86 aims to introduce a sustainable approach to the pre-established structures of the seasonal fashion world. KONZEPT86’s labels are able to sell directly to the public, therefore they are able to maintain lower pricing for their collections, making their designs accessible to a wider demographic. They are not bound to seasons, which means that they are able to accurately manage  and filter their production.

As well as providing a beautiful exhibition space for their designs, KONZEPT86 is also a space designers can use in and out of fashion week, to meet press and buyers and to present their new pieces, supported by the store’s infrastructures and marketing tools. And to top it all off, any income received through KONZEPT86 goes straight back to them, allowing them to grow as fashion labels the whole year round.

In order to encourage the growth of emerging designers, KONZEPT86 is also introducing a new way of wearing fashion. Items can be hired from the store for a few days for a fraction of their sales price, granting access to a range of customers, from those requiring a special one off piece for a special event to fashion enthusiasts who are unable to afford full-price avant-garde design. And if the renter decides to buy pieces afterwards, what has already been paid is simply deducted from the sales price. And of course, items are dry-cleaned after every use, so you won’t run into any unpleasant surprises.

And this is why KONZEPT86 cannot be defined as your typical concept store.  Tonight, KONZEPT86 opens its doors to the public. We look forward to seeing you there.

Original Article

In a nutshell: Laend Phuengkit

[By Niccolò Montanari]

Laend Phuengkit is a meeting point between the East and the West. A fashion designer who has never been put off by his multicultural singularity, but who on the contrary has channelled it into a unique approach. Through Laend Phuengkit, two fundamentally different cultures find a common ground and are released into modern designs reminiscent of their past.

Laend was born in Zurich, lives in Berlin, but has never forgotten his Thai roots. He sees this combination as a complex equation, and a source of inspiration for his designs. In order to understand the different aspects of his persona, and allow them to cooperate rather than to oppose each other, he has had to open a dialogue between them, letting each side tell its story. In terms of clothing, this translates into the graceful, colourful and enthusiastic shapes of the East juxtaposed with the more pragmatic and functional outlook of the West.

Laend’s fashion inclination is something that has been passed down in his family for generations. His grandmother was a tailor, and since a very young age he used to stare at her, hypnotised by the waving of intricate patterns and ideas into tangible objects, to be worn and flaunted. However, it wasn’t until he went to University that he finally decided to delve into his passion. He attended the University of Applied Sciences in Basel, and right from the very beginning he began to explore the difficult relationship between women’s wear and menswear.

 In Laed’s opinion, menswear tends to be more interesting to design, though ultimately he admits that it is a much harder market to crack. He believes that with menswear you can be a lot more inventive and innovative, but you have to pay greater care to the functionality and longevity of the items, as men tend to look at fashion from a more pragmatic point of view. On the other hand, trying to come up with new designs and ideas for women’s wear is not always easy, as “It is much harder to reinvent the wheel”, though that makes it all the more challenging and interesting.

Laend Phuengkit is currently selling his collections at Konzept86, the Berlin-based concept store for emerging fashion designers. Come and discover his clothes on Wednesday May 16 at the Konzept86 Opening Party.

http://www.laendphuengkit.com

Original Article